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Rejuvenate Your Skin With A Peel

By: Kim
February 07, 2010

People are always asking me what’s the deal with Peels? Do they really make a difference in your complexion? Will it actually make me look younger? My answer to all these questions are: yes, yes and yes! When you remove excess dead cells from the skin, it will reveal younger looking skin. In order to let that inner beauty out, you have to shed away the dry, unattractive skin. This can be achieved in three different ways:

• Manually with facial scrubs

• Mechanically with microdermabrasion

• Chemically with peels or any products that contain glycolic acid

You can get fresher, younger looking skin with all three procedures. Facial scrubs can help improve the appearance of your skin, but it will take a few weeks before you see a difference. Microdermabrasion will get you there faster than a scrub, but will take a few visits to your esthetician, which will cost you more money in the end. Peels have an instant over night improvement.

After using a peel, the texture of the skin will look and feel smoother. It will increase cell turnover, hydration, moisture retention, as well as the elastin and collagen production in your skin. It will also reduce fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation. All of this can be achieved just by receiving a peel once a month or once a year depending on how mild or strong the peel is.

Before you can understand how a peel works, you must know the three layers of the skin. The outer layer, being your toughest skin is the Epidermis. The second layer directly under the Epidermis is called the Dermis. This is where you will find nerve endings, blood vessels, oil glands, and sweat glands. It also contains collagen and elastin. The third and bottom layer is called the Subcutaneous layer. It is made mostly of fat and helps your body stay warm. You'll also find the start of hair follicles in this layer.

Now that you know the layers, it’s time to explain the procedures. Estheticians are licensed to perform peels that are designed to penetrate only the epidermis. There are five types of peels: glycolic acid (30 % or less), lactic acid (30 % or less), enzyme (fruit acid), and Jessner’s solution (1-3 coats). These peels are considered to be “Light Peels” or noninvasive/nonaggressive.

• Glycolic acid is an alphahydroxy-acid derived from sugar cane that effectively works to stimulate growth of new skin. This water-soluble acid helps decrease the bonds that hold dead skin cells on the surface.

• Lactic acid is derived from sour milk, and is much milder on the skin versus Glycolic peels. Lactic acid peels help eliminate germs, toxins and dead cells while slowly removing old cells. This is great for sensitive skin, such as Rosacea.

• Enzyme peels help breakdown keratin, the protein in the skin. This antioxidant peel employs natural acids and nutrients, including vitamins A, E, and beta carotene, to soften the skin, eliminate impurities, and remove dead skin cells.

• Salicylic Acid Peel is a beta-hydroxy acid derived deep in the heart of Willow Bark and Sweet Birch trees. This highly effective peeling agent works milder than AHA’s because it’s oil soluble. Perfect for oily and acne prone skin.

• Jessner’s peel consists of a mild peeling agent that consists of lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol resulting in deeper penetration and greater exfoliation of the outer layers. The more coats, the stronger the peel. Make sure you only receive 3 coats for a light Jessner’s Peel. Anything more than that should be distributed by a doctor. You will have noticeable flaking and exfoliation in the following three to four days after the peel. With a full week of recovery, smoother, healthier skin will be revealed.

Physicians such as Dermatologists, Plastic Surgeons, or Registered Nurses can perform procedures that penetrate deeper into the skin; (dermal layer) “Medium or deep peels.” They make use of the following chemicals for an intense peel: phenol, TCA (trichloroacetic acid), glycolic acid (50% or more) and Jessner’s peel (4-10 coats).

With a phenol peel (carbolic acid, also called “Baker’s Peel”), the new skin frequently loses its ability to make pigment. Basically you won’t be able to get tan! You will always have to protect it from the sun because your skin will be lighter. It’s a highly acidic deep peel that will peel down into the dermis. The TCA is a medium-depth peel that removes the epidermis down to the dermis. Glycolic and Jessner peels are the same as above, just at a higher percentage. The Jessner’s peel consists of 4-10 coats and is very strong.

Do not have any peels if you are using Retin-A or other acids/AHAs, Accutane, or tetracycline. If you are pregnant postpone peels until after you have given birth.

Make sure you discuss the issues and contraindications with your Esthetician or Physician. Together you can figure out which peel is right for you. If you’re looking to make a significant improvement in the surface of your skin, then peels are the way to go.

Start the New Year off with fewer fine lines, fewer blemishes, and more even-toned skin. The results will be long lasting!

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