Flawless Skin

One of the most frequent questions I get about makeup is how to apply foundation correctly to create the look of flawless, natural skin. That is not really an easy question to answer. There are many techniques to apply foundation, and many different types and textures of foundation, such as concealers, cover-up, liquid, cream, water-based, oil-based, cake powder, etc. To apply these products you can use a variety of brushes, sponges, puffs, applicators, or as I often do, fingers. Add to this the many different textures of skin and variations in blotchiness, discoloration and uneven skin tone, plus problems like acne, dry or oily skin, and wrinkles. You see how hard it is to give a general “how to”; each face is a different and unique proposition.

The most important thing for a successful application is to use the proper shade of foundation (and concealer). Unfortunately, I almost always have to blend different shades together to get it just right, and unless you’re very lucky to have found a pre-made perfect match, you’ll have to mix too.

You should be able to dot a generous amount with your finger onto your forehead, along the jaw under your cheekbone, and somewhere along your collarbone - and barely be able to see those dots in front of a mirror in daylight. It should disappear into your skin. If your coloring is very uneven, do your best to average those three areas.

The most natural-looking makeup is achieved by using foundation only where needed, with other areas left bare. This can only be successfully achieved when the shade matches you skin tone perfectly.

Method of application is a matter of personal preference. I usually use a professional latex sponge (the kind that increases in size when soaked), and an appropriately sized brush for detail work.

Apply your foundation only where needed, usually this is under the eyes, around nostrils, and maybe a little to soften redness on the chin and forehead. Always blend the edges carefully, and try to avoid getting too close to the eye - the darkness is usually well below the lower lid. Be careful around crease prone areas such as smile lines and possibly creases in the forehead. If you need foundation in these areas, apply it carefully and then use a sharp cosmetic swab or the sharp edge of the sponge to remove the foundation from the center of the crease, then gently blot the entire area with the sponge.

I also use a cosmetic swab (or Q-tip) to remove foundation from any beauty marks or major freckles. A small brush (like a small lip brush) can be used to spot cover any outstanding red spots, blotches, or pimples.

If you like cream blush (like I do), now is the time to add color to the cheeks (and possibly the nose, chin, and forehead for a sun-kissed look) blending it gently into the skin. If you prefer powder blush, this should be done after powdering the foundation.

To finish, use a fine, loose face powder in an appropriate shade applied very lightly with a large, soft powder brush. You want to set the areas you’ve applied foundation to without erasing the natural dewiness of the skin. And there you have it.

I’ll cover more details of foundation application in future postings, as I think it is the most important step to a beautiful makeup.

Take care and be beautiful.

Want to read about a foundation that I helped design? Maret Asaro will tell you all about it in her article Botanical Foundation.